When Should I Start Seeds Indoors Before the Last Frost?
A Month-by-Month Seed-Starting Calendar
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Starting seeds indoors at the right time is one of the most important things you can do for a successful growing season. The general rule: count backward 6–8 weeks from your average last frost date, and that's when most crops should go into trays.
Start too early and seedlings become leggy and root-bound before the ground is ready; start too late and you lose precious growing time. Your last frost date is the anchor for everything — find yours using the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map, and let this calendar do the rest.
At Reencle, we work with composting and growing cycles year-round, and seed-starting timing is one of the most common questions we hear from home gardeners every January and February. This guide gives you everything you need in one place.
What Is a Last Frost Date and How Do I Find Mine? {#last-frost-date}
Your last frost date is the average calendar date after which freezing temperatures (below 32°F / 0°C) are unlikely to occur in spring. It's a probability, not a guarantee — based on decades of historical weather data. Most gardening resources express it as a 50% probability date, meaning there's still a 1-in-2 chance of frost after that day.
To find your last frost date:
• U.S. gardeners: Use the [USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map] or your local Cooperative Extension service. The University of Minnesota Extension maintains a searchable database by zip code [University of Minnesota Extension, 2023].
• UK gardeners: The Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) recommends checking the Met Office's frost risk data by region, as last frost dates vary from late March in southern England to late May in the Scottish Highlands [RHS, 2024].
> Tip: Always add a 1–2 week safety buffer beyond your technical last frost date before transplanting cold-sensitive crops like tomatoes and peppers outdoors. Experienced gardeners treat the last frost date as a guide, not a guarantee.
The 6–8 Week Rule Explained {#the-rule}
The "6–8 weeks before last frost" guideline exists because most vegetable seedlings take that long to reach transplant size — large enough root systems, sturdy stems, and true leaves — without becoming overcrowded or root-bound in their starting cells.
This window isn't the same for every crop.
According to the Cornell Cooperative Extension seed-starting guide [Cornell Cooperative Extension, 2023]:
• Fast-growing crops (lettuce, spinach, cucumbers): 3–4 weeks indoors is sufficient — or they can be direct-sown.
• Moderate crops (tomatoes, peppers): 6–8 weeks is standard.
• Slow-growing crops (celery, leeks, onions): 10–12 weeks, sometimes starting in late winter.
• Long-season crops (artichokes, certain perennial herbs): Can require 12–16 weeks from seed to transplant.
Starting more than 8 weeks ahead of your last frost (for standard crops) almost always backfires. Seedlings outgrow their cells, compete for light, become spindly, and are harder to transplant successfully.
Month-by-Month Seed-Starting Calendar {#calendar}
This calendar assumes a last frost date of April 30 (common in USDA Zones 5–6, which includes much of the U.S. Midwest and Mid-Atlantic). Adjust backward or forward by the number of weeks between your actual last frost and April 30.
January (12–16 weeks before last frost)
January is for the slowest-maturing crops only. If you're in Zone 5–6, this means:
• Onions and leeks: These take 10–14 weeks to reach transplant size. Starting in mid-January gives them a head start [University of Illinois Extension, 2023].
• Artichokes: Need vernalization (a cold period) and up to 16 weeks from seed.
• Celery: Notoriously slow; January starts are appropriate for Zone 5.
Most gardeners should resist starting tomatoes or peppers in January — they'll be massively overgrown before it's warm enough to plant them out.
February (8–12 weeks before last frost)
February is when serious seed-starting begins for many regions.
• Peppers: These are the slowest of the common fruiting vegetables. Starting 8–10 weeks before last frost — early to mid-February for Zone 5 — is ideal.
• Celery and celeriac: If not started in January, start now.
• Slow-maturing brassicas: Broccoli, cauliflower, and Brussels sprouts for spring planting go in now.
March (6–8 weeks before last frost)
This is prime seed-starting season for most home gardeners.
• Tomatoes: Start 6–8 weeks before last frost. For an April 30 last frost, that's March 5–19.
• Eggplant: Similar timing to peppers — needs warmth and a long runway.
• Basil: Highly cold-sensitive; start indoors 4–6 weeks before last frost.
April (2–4 weeks before last frost)
• Cucumbers, squash, melons: These dislike root disturbance and grow fast; 2–4 weeks indoors only.
• Lettuce and spinach: Start indoors for a headstart, or direct sow outdoors under row cover.
• Flowers (marigolds, zinnias): 4–6 weeks before last frost.
Crop-by-Crop Timing Table {#timing-table}
Use this table with your own last frost date. Simply count backward from that date by the number of weeks shown.
| Crop | Weeks Before Last Frost to Start Indoors | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Onions & Leeks | 10–14 weeks | Slow growers; start January for Zone 5 |
| Celery & Celeriac | 10–12 weeks | Needs consistent moisture; slow germinator |
| Peppers | 8–10 weeks | Need warmth (24–27°C / 75–80°F) to germinate |
| Eggplant | 8–10 weeks | Similar conditions to peppers |
| Artichoke | 10–16 weeks | Needs cold stratification |
| Broccoli & Cauliflower | 6–8 weeks | For spring planting; can also direct sow in summer |
| Tomatoes | 6–8 weeks | Most common crop; use bottom heat for germination |
| Brussels Sprouts | 6–8 weeks | Long season; transplant early |
| Cabbage | 6–8 weeks | Tolerates light frost once established |
| Kale & Collards | 4–6 weeks | Cold-hardy; can also direct sow |
| Basil | 4–6 weeks | Very cold-sensitive; wait until after last frost to transplant |
| Lettuce & Spinach | 4–6 weeks | Can also direct sow under row cover |
| Cucumbers | 2–4 weeks | Dislikes root disturbance; transplant carefully |
| Squash & Zucchini | 2–4 weeks | Fast growers; don't start too early |
| Melons | 2–4 weeks | Need warmth; transplant carefully |
| Peas | Direct sow | Do not start indoors — they dislike transplanting |
| Beans | Direct sow | Same; direct sow after last frost |
| Carrots & Radishes | Direct sow | Root crops should not be transplanted |
Sources: Cornell Cooperative Extension [2023]; University of Minnesota Extension [2023]; University of Illinois Extension [2023]
How to Read a Seed Packet for Timing Information {#seed-packets}
Every commercial seed packet gives you the information you need — but it takes a moment to decode it. Look for:
• "Days to maturity": This tells you how long from transplant (or sometimes from direct sow) until the crop is harvestable.
A tomato labeled "75 days to maturity" needs 75 growing days after transplanting.
• "Start indoors X weeks before last frost": This is your primary timing cue.
Follow it — the breeder tested it.
• "Direct sow after last frost": This means the crop does not benefit from indoor starting.
• Germination temperature: If your home is below the recommended temperature, germination will be slow or fail.
Most warm-season crops (tomatoes, peppers) germinate best at 24–27°C (75–80°F) — a heat mat is often necessary [Cornell Cooperative Extension, 2023].
Hardening Off: The Critical Step Before Transplanting {#hardening-off}
No matter how perfectly timed your indoor seed starting is, transplanting seedlings directly from a warm, sheltered indoor environment to the open garden will almost always cause transplant shock — or worse, kill the plants.
Hardening off is the process of gradually acclimating seedlings to outdoor conditions over 7–14 days. Here's a reliable schedule:
• Days 1–3: Place seedlings outdoors in a sheltered, shaded spot for 1–2 hours, then bring them back in.
• Days 4–6: Increase to 3–4 hours; introduce some gentle direct sun.
• Days 7–10: Leave outdoors for half the day, including some full sun exposure.
• Days 11–14: Seedlings can stay outside all day; bring in only if frost is forecast.
The University of Minnesota Extension emphasizes that even cold-tolerant crops like broccoli and kale need hardening off, because it's not just cold that stresses plants — it's also wind, UV radiation intensity, and fluctuating humidity [University of Minnesota Extension, 2023].
> Watch for these signs of successful hardening off: leaves become slightly thicker and more
deeply colored; stems stiffen noticeably; plants no longer wilt quickly in afternoon sun.
Quick Reference Summary {#summary}
The 5-step seed-starting process:
1. Find your last frost date using the USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map or local Cooperative Extension service.
2. Count backward using the crop timing table above — most crops need 6–8 weeks; slow crops like onions and peppers need 10–12.
3. Use proper seed-starting mix (not garden soil or regular potting mix) in cells or trays.
4. Provide bottom heat for warm-season crops (tomatoes, peppers, eggplant) — a heat mat set to 24–27°C dramatically improves germination rates.
5. Harden off for 7–14 days before transplanting outdoors.
At a glance: Zone 5–6 (Last frost ~April 30)
| Month to Start | What to Start |
|---|---|
| January | Onions, leeks, artichokes, celery |
| February | Peppers, eggplant, slow brassicas |
| March | Tomatoes, broccoli, cauliflower, basil |
| April | Cucumbers, squash, melons, lettuce |
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: What if I miss my ideal seed-starting window?
A: Start anyway, but adjust your expectations. Tomatoes started 4 weeks before last frost instead of 6–8 will be smaller at transplant time but will often catch up quickly in warm soil. For very slow crops like peppers or leeks, a significant delay may reduce your season's yield, but it's still worth planting. A slightly late garden beats no garden.
Q:Can I use a grow light to extend my seed-starting window earlier?
A: Yes, but the bottleneck isn't light — it's temperature and transplanting timing. You can start seeds earlier under lights, but if your last frost date doesn't move, starting tomatoes in January just gives you overgrown seedlings by April. Stick to the timing table and use grow lights to ensure quality (16 hours of light per day), not to push timing earlier than necessary.
Q: How do I find my last frost date if I'm outside the U.S.?
A : For Canada, Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada publishes climate normal data by station. For the UK, the RHS and Met Office provide frost date guidance. For Australia and New Zealand, state-level gardening guides published by local botanical gardens or agriculture departments are your best resources. Gardening communities in your specific region are also highly reliable.
Q: Is the last frost date the same as the last hard freeze?
A: Not exactly. A "frost" is typically defined as temperatures at or below 0°C (32°F). A "hard freeze" is generally below -4°C (25°F) and more damaging. Most last frost date data refers to the lighter frost threshold, which matters most for tender crops like tomatoes and basil. Cold-hardy crops like kale can tolerate light frosts even after transplanting.
Q: Do I need to stratify any vegetable seeds before planting?
A: Most common vegetables do not require cold stratification.
However, some perennial vegetables and herbs (lavender, artichoke, some peppers) do benefit from a period of cold to break dormancy.
Always check the seed packet or supplier's guidance for the specific variety you're growing.
References
1. U.S. Department of Agriculture Agricultural Research Service. (2023). USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map.
2. University of Minnesota Extension. (2023). Starting Seeds Indoors.
3. Cornell Cooperative Extension. (2023). Seed Starting for the Home Gardener.
4. University of Illinois Extension. (2023). Vegetable Garden Planning: Seed Starting.
5. Royal Horticultural Society. (2024). When to Sow Seeds.
6. USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service. Soil Climate Analysis Network (SCAN).
About the Author: [Author Name] is a composting educator and home gardening writer with [X] years of experience growing vegetables in USDA Zone [X]. They contribute regularly to the Reencle blog on topics spanning soil health, seed starting, and sustainable growing practices. [Author credentials, certifications, or relevant experience here.]
Related Posts:
• What is the difference between seed-starting mix and regular potting soil? — See our complete guide to choosing the right growing medium
• What equipment do I actually need to start seeds indoors? — Everything from grow lights to heat mats, explained
• Can I use homemade compost directly in seed-starting trays? — How to safely use compost in your seedling setup